Both EasyFlo 60 and EasyFlo120 resins work the same way - the only real difference is the viscosity. The lower the number, the runnier it is. Incidentally - the numbers refer to the unit of measurement of a fluid's viscocity, known as 'Centipoise' or 'cP'. To help make sense of this, water has a cP of 1, whereas honey is around 3000 cP. Peanut butter is 200,000 cP. Don't make moulds with peanut butter though. EasyFlo 120 is slightly thicker than EasyFlo 60 and better suited to swilling or rotocasting moulds where a hollow shell is required, for example.
**It is a material which comes in two components marked Part A and Part B. It is of note that the Part B is denser than Part A.
Because of this, when measuring out the components you will need to measure equal amounts by volume (two identical sized contained containers filled to the same point) or 100 parts Part A to 90 parts Part B if by weight. **
Make sure you wear protective gloves such as disposable Nitrile or Vinyl when handling this material - avoid skin contact! It is also advisable users wear protective glasses to avoid accidental eye contact from spills and splashes when working. Check MSDS sheet to ensure you have appropriate safety measure in place.
Mix the components thoroughly but quickly and pour or brush onto the surface as required.
The mixture will soon warm up and gradually thicken, setting into a solid usually within a couple of minutes. When freshly mixed, the resin has a clear, pale amber colour and sets to an opaque white (usually only a couple of minutes).
A warm ambient room temperature may accelerate this, so ensure you have everything prepared before you mix the components. The thing to remember is this is a FAST material! It will set up to an optimal.
EasyFlo polyurethane resins will generate heat as they cure, so there is a limit to how thick a section you can make in one go. For larger moulds, consider building up in thinner layers, or use a mineral filler to bulk out the material such as Aluminium Trihydrate filler powder , DT -082 Filler or Polytek PolyFibres II which can be mixed in to make the resin into a thicker, spreadable paste. This is particularly useful when working on vertical surfaces where gravity would make applying a more fluid substance difficult.
EasyFlo can be pigmented with polyurethane pigments, added during mixing which is great for colour coding moulds or creating a base tone for items to be later painted.
Polyurethane resins do not get on with moisture, so take care to seal any water-based clay used in the original sculpture or mould wall. Sealers include Sprayon PVC Silver Spray or a clear car lacquer work well for this. Once sealed, a release agent is required to help separate the finished mould surface from this, and a wax in liquid or spray form such as Macwax, Mouldwax or Liquid Wax over the top is ideal.
As the resin will generate heat as it cures, it is advisable to allow it to cool down fully before demoulding or handling as a still-warm piece may warp and distort as it cools outside of the mould. This is particularly important if making a mould which needs to accurately align with another part, such as two-part prosthetic moulds.
When using any products, materials or equipment, you should familiarise yourself with them and take appropriate health and safety measures to protect yourself and others around you from harm. Obtain and consult the relevant MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) from your supplier and any 'Physical Properties Bulletins' which manufacturers may supply. This product generates heat as it cures so take care to avoid making sections in excess of recommended thickness. Take care to avoid fumes such materials produce - use appropriate protective equipment and a suitably ventilated workspace.